Konya, Turkey is the origin of a Sufi sect of Islam, which worships God with a practice of whirling as a form of dhikr (remembrance of God).  These guys are commonly known as the Whirling Dervishes.  The order was started by the followers of Jalal ad-Din Muhammad Balkhi-Rumi, a 13th-century Persian poet, Islamic jurist, and theologian, according to Wikipedia.

Saturday, Terese and I went on a tour to Konya to eat good food, do some shopping, and then attend a performance of the ceremony.  We took many pictures, but we were not allowed to use flash.  Altho others ignored the request, we didn’t, so many of the pics were out of focus.  But we did get enough to show.

Once we arrived in Konya, the guides took us to a restaurant to eat.  As in any meal I’ve had in Turkey, the food was excellent.  Usually with lamb or chicken, and always with yogurt, peppers, onions and greens that looks like weeds to me.

Below it starts with the little bowls of stuff, some of it not be eaten by those with a soft stomach.   Then came the “Mozambique” soup, followed by lamb on bread.  The dessert we determined was a chestnut paste mixed with butter.  Everything is meant to be eaten with bread. Afterwards we went to an outdoor Mevlana Museum with the history of the Mevlevi Order.  The museum contains many sarcophagi – (plural of sarcophagus) holding the remains of the early Rumi families. Here’s some pics Terese took in the museum. As we walked around in the sub-freezing sunshine, two little school girls stopped Terese and asked to interview her.  Turns out to be their school homework.  They spoke very good English, whereas it’s not common in Turkey to learn our language.  As soon as they finished, two more girls stopped to interview her.  That’s when I pulled my phone out and took these pics. Terese always gets cute girls to visit with her, while all I get are old women who want me to help them cross a street.  Below are a few pics I took of the surrounding area. As we walked around waiting for time to go to the performance and do a bit of shopping, I was more concerned on finding a place to warm up, and did not take any pictures of the inside of the shops.  Luckily Terese took some. The gentleman on the left is the proprietor.

We eventually attended the performance (Sama).  It starts out with a very slow procession of the sheikh and 28 dervishes.  The lighting changed color occasionally, so the best pics are the ones I got with the full lighting. Once they all came in, with a lot of chanting and bowing between movements, they removed their black cloaks showing the white garments. Taken from Wikipedia:    The Sama was practiced in the samahane (ritual hall) according to a precisely prescribed symbolic ritual with the dervishes whirling in a circle around their sheikh, who is the only one whirling around his axis. The Sema is performed by spinning on the Left foot. The dervishes wear a white gown (tennure) (symbol of death), a wide black cloak (hırka) (symbol of the grave) and a tall brown hat (kûlah or sikke), symbol of the tombstone. Then there is a very slow, step-by-step walk (even slower than a wedding march) of several of them, in a circle with the sheikh.  The sheikh is the one with the green cloth on his hat. Then they all slowly move past him and started their whirling.They did four separate whirling sessions with a lot of bowing between them, each lasting about 10 minutes or so.  Not once did I see any of them barf, nor show any signs of vertigo.  I told Terese to keep her purse handy in case I got sick watching them.

I figured the guy walking among them was controlling the movement of the circle.  He would move in and out allowing the dervishes to fill in gaps and to help some of them know when to move.  As I understand, they are suppose to be in a trance of sort.

The Sama is concluded with a recitation from the Qu’ran and a prayer by the sheikh. I saw a much smaller Sama years ago in Istanbul and was interested in seeing this larger show.  I think Terese enjoyed it more than I did.  She being an old dancer from decades past could relate to it better than me. … and no, I didn’t get sick.       D.

I added some thoughts about Employment on the topic, Something to Think About.  Please take the time to read it.  It’s the link on the left, under Page One.

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A few weeks ago, I had to do some work in Adana, about 6 hours southeast of Ankara.  When I worked in Ethiopia, all our constituent posts were reached by plane, but here in Turkey we take a vehicle.

It affords me a chance to see what the Turkish countryside looks like, from the mountains to the plains, including the second largest salt lake in the world.  Second only to what we have in Utah.

I took this trip three years ago and found it beautiful.  On the way back, we stopped at a restaurant that specializes in lamb chops.  I know for a fact I could eat a whole kilo and a half by myself. (About 3 lbs)  Outside the restaurant was a spice dealer selling his goods.

Everywhere in Turkey, you will find all kinds of nuts, (the food type) and they are not only plentiful, but inexpensive.  I do not see as many walnuts and pecans as much as all the rest.  At the Consulate in Adana, the back part of the property had perhaps 100 citrus trees, from lemons to grapefruits to oranges.  Some of them have been removed for construction, but they add an interesting effect to the compound.

Then this past week I traveled northwest to Istanbul for some work, and fell in love with the ancient and enchanted city.  I stayed at the Hilton on the Bosphorus Strait, which divides Istanbul – the Asian side and the Europe side.

Below is a sunrise picture through dirty windows on the 9^th floor.

Good Morning, Turkey!

Every place we sat to eat, food was brought out as soon as we sat down.

And at a restaurant in Adana, I had broiled fish served in a clay bowl.

You know, I could easily get fat in this country.  More Later.

Kick butt.     D.

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On November 10th, 1775, at the Tun Tavern in Philadelphia, the US Marine Corps was created.  Eight months before the birth of our Country.

This year’s 238th Marine Birthday Ball was Saturday night at the Swissotel in Ankara, and as always it’s hosted by the Marines themselves.

The special guest is the presiding Ambassador, Francis J. Ricciardone, Jr., our Ambassador to Turkey

A video was played of General John M. Paxton, Jr., the four-star General, who currently serves as the Assistant Commandant of the Marine Corps, extolling the rigors and virtues of the Corps.  He restates the common knowledge that every Marine is also a rifleman.  They are able to maneuver within hours and have no room for error.  You remember the saying:  If it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight, call the Marines.  There is truth to that.

This guest speaker was the Commander of the Royal Marines of the UK, stationed in Turkey.  Their Marines Corps was established in 1664, a bit earlier than ours.  He spoke with the usual dry sense of humor found in the United Kingdom.

He states that Marines are difficult to command because of their raucous behavior, yet they are the most disciplined of the Military fields.  He said they will fight over which bar the Corps was formed in, but there is no argument they were indeed formed in a bar.

Since their inception, the Marines have served in every conflict America has endured.  In total, over 30 engagements, from the American Revolutionary War to the most recent, Operation Odyssey Dawn in 2011.

After the speeches, a large flat birthday cake is rolled out.  The first piece cut, goes to the special guest, Ambassador Ricciardone.  The second piece is given to the oldest Marine in attendance, who then turns and presents it to the youngest Marine.  Every year, the youngest seems to get younger.

Both US and the Marine Corps flags are prominently displayed.  When the National Anthem is played, the Marine Corps flag is gently lowered to allow the American flag to remain in a position of honor.  While the Star Spangled Banner is sung by a soloist, you can look around and see who the Americans are and who are not.  The Americans will be mouthing the words of the anthem.

As with every year, a lone table is set at the entrance to honor those incredible soldiers who gave everything they had to ensure the freedom of America.  It is a solemn place setting with the plate inverted, to show that although they will not be able to share a meal, they are still in our thoughts and spirits.

The feasts at the balls are always interesting and enjoyable.  We were given a small plate of sliced duck on a bed of humus.  I could have eaten nothing but that for the meal.  The next course was bass for me and lamb loin for Terese, followed with a dessert of tiramisu.

Then the band played and people danced, and I slipped out into the foyer to visit with others.

I have worked with many of these Marines and have seen firsthand their courtesy and respect of others.  When you ask them a question, the answer they give will either be, yes or no.  If it’s not the answer you want, there is no way in hell that answer will change.

They refer to me as Sir, and I them.  When I get to know certain ones on a personal basis, I will use their first name, and they me.  Even with a more open camaraderie with them, there is still an acute resoluteness and respect they give me.

Many of these seem too young to be doing what they do, but when you meet them and visit with them, you see why they were chosen to serve at a diplomatic post.

… and I do indeed tell them to kick butt.   D.

I never really had much of an excitement for Halloween, as it just seemed to be something for the children and those who look for an excuse to party.  So I was rather surprised when my bosses (and many other offices) started preparations a month ahead for decorating the offices.  But, I guess it’s their thing.

Friday, November 1st, the Embassy hosted an afternoon for the children to safely scour the Embassy grounds for treats in lieu of tricks.  Many people pulled their vehicles into the parking area and had their trunks set up for the disbursement of the treats.  Below are some of the pics I took, although some didn’t come out very well, due to the low light.

  Don’t be scared, but here are some of the local ghouls.

Next year, I will be better prepared with a good camera.  D.

This past week, we had a 4 ½ day Turkish holiday. Coupled with Columbus Day, we’ve had the whole week off. The holiday is Kurban Bayrami – a religious festival which includes sacrificing an animal in a special ritual. It is also visiting relatives and helping the poor. From what I understand, it’s like combining a bit of Thanksgiving with a bit of Christmas.

I worked in Turkey several years ago and one of the first things I noticed is the Turks are service oriented people. They make the best hosts at any dinner. The restaurants in Turkey (and elsewhere throughout Europe) are places where people come to eat, and usually stay for hours. Once you sit at a table, that table is yours until you decide to leave. None of this “Get the people out so we can put someone else there. More people = more tips.”

The first Turkish restaurant I sat at (above), the waiters brought several plates of salads, sauces, cheeses and breads, honey, yogurt (Turks eat a great deal of yogurt) and some stuff I didn’t recognize, before the menu was presented. After ordering, you enjoy the dishes and your drink while waiting for your food. When it does arrive, the waiters will take away your plates and utensils and return with clean sets. As you eat, if there is a pause in your dining, they will do it again. During the 2-3 hours you may sit eating, drinking and visiting with friends, you will have a three or four sets of clean dinnerware.

Now, with that in mind, I went to a barber shop the other day to get a quick trim. Using a fellow customer who could speak English, I told the barber just a trim all over and keep it above the ears. Afterwards, the barber asked through the interpreter if I wanted a shampoo.   I replied, No, thank you.

Shave?

No, thank you.

Perhaps some gel?

No, thank you.

Trim the eyebrows?

No, thank you.

Wax the hair in your ears?

No, thank you.

Neck massage?

No, thank you.

I notice your hair is quite thin on top. Would you like some hair growth product?

No, thank you.

It’s as if I was expected to sit in the barber chair for a few hours. In the States, a favorite hairstylist would cut my hair and be done in 10 minutes. Evidently not here. And after getting up and paying my tab and giving the barber a tip, I was asked if I would like some chai. (tea)   No, thank you.

Then as I was leaving, the barber sits at a small table outside and lights up a cigarette and has himself some chai. The next customer didn’t seem to be upset at having to wait, but just continued reading his newspaper. This is going to be an interesting three years.

D.